Geeetech Mizar S 3D Printer - Revision history

Admin: /* The consumables don't stick to the hot bed */

2023-07-22T07:53:12Z

The consumables don't stick to the hot bed

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:53, 22 July 2023
Line 636:		Line 636:

	Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help.		Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help.


	2.Print temperature is too low		2.Print temperature is too low

Admin: /* The consumables don't stick to the hot bed */

2023-07-22T07:52:46Z

The consumables don't stick to the hot bed

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:52, 22 July 2023
Line 633:		Line 633:
	=== '''The consumables don't stick to the hot bed'''===		=== '''The consumables don't stick to the hot bed'''===

	~~(a)~~Nozzle is too close to the hotbed		1.Nozzle is too close to the hotbed

	Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help.		Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help.

	~~(b)~~Print temperature is too low
			2.Print temperature is too low

	Some filament needs more higher temperature, manually feed the filament, if it can not be extruded, please try increase the print temperature.		Some filament needs more higher temperature, manually feed the filament, if it can not be extruded, please try increase the print temperature.

	~~(c)~~The extruder is not working		3.The extruder is not working

	Check if the grub screw on the extruder gear. If the grub screw is loose, the gear will fail to grab the filament when feeding into the hotend. Also check if the extruder motor is connected properly.		Check if the grub screw on the extruder gear. If the grub screw is loose, the gear will fail to grab the filament when feeding into the hotend. Also check if the extruder motor is connected properly.

Admin: /* How to print ABS */

2023-06-13T08:11:37Z

How to print ABS

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:11, 13 June 2023
Line 803:		Line 803:

	[[File:W74.png]]		[[File:W74.png]]

	Fan speed: 0%		Fan speed: 0%

Admin at 08:10, 13 June 2023

2023-06-13T08:10:40Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:10, 13 June 2023
Line 783:		Line 783:
	3. Mechanical reasons		3. Mechanical reasons
	If you can be sure it's not either, it's probably mechanical. For example, when printing, the printing platform shaking and vibration may lead to the position change of the nozzle, which will lead to inconsistent layer thickness, and thus produce the problem of uneven side edges. Another example: mechanical position or motor differential control problem. Even the small offset of the printing platform can affect each layer of the printed object.		If you can be sure it's not either, it's probably mechanical. For example, when printing, the printing platform shaking and vibration may lead to the position change of the nozzle, which will lead to inconsistent layer thickness, and thus produce the problem of uneven side edges. Another example: mechanical position or motor differential control problem. Even the small offset of the printing platform can affect each layer of the printed object.

			=== '''How to print TPU'''===

			Nozzle temperature: 220-230℃
			Bed temperature: 30-60℃
			Print speed: 30-40mm/s
			Initial print speed: 20mm/s
			Retraction: Disabled

			[[File:W73.png]]

			=== '''How to print ABS'''===

			Nozzle temperature: 230-250℃
			Bed temperature: 90-110℃
			Print speed: 50-60mm/s
			Initial print speed: 20mm/s
			Number of slower layers: 5-10 (The first few layers are printed slower that the rest of the model, to get better adhesion to the build plate.)

			[[File:W74.png]]
			Fan speed: 0%

			[[File:W75.png]]

			Build plate adhesion: Brim
			Raft shield: Enable

			[[File:W76.png]]

			Build plate adhesion: Brim
			Raft shield: Enable

			=== '''How to print PETG'''===

			Nozzle temperature: 220-250℃
			Bed temperature: 70-80℃
			Print speed: 40-50mm/s
			Initial print speed: 20mm/s
			Travel speed: 120mm/s

			[[File:W77.png]]

			Retraction distance: 6mm for Bowden setups, 2-3mm for direct drive setups
			Retraction speed: 25-45mm/s
			Fan speed: 30%
			Initial fan speed: 0%
			Build plate adhesion: Brim
			The recommended parameters are slightly different for different brands of filaments. We can provide you with test models.
			PETG is hygroscopic. Try using a container or resealable bags.

Admin: /* The side edges are unevenH */

2023-06-13T08:05:55Z

The side edges are unevenH

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:05, 13 June 2023
Line 769:		Line 769:
	3. The filling ratio is too low		3. The filling ratio is too low
	You can try to increase the fill ratio by 20%.		You can try to increase the fill ratio by 20%.
	=== '''The side edges are ~~unevenH~~'''===		=== '''The side edges are uneven'''===

	[[File:W72.png]]		[[File:W72.png]]

Admin at 07:56, 13 June 2023

2023-06-13T07:56:26Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:56, 13 June 2023
Line 713:		Line 713:
	Another mechanical problem is the machine meter screw (top wire), this small screw is used to fix the pulley on the stepping motor shaft, so that the pulley rotates with the motor shaft, but if the screw is loose, there will be shaft rotation and the wheel will not turn. This situation also causes the problem of layer offset.		Another mechanical problem is the machine meter screw (top wire), this small screw is used to fix the pulley on the stepping motor shaft, so that the pulley rotates with the motor shaft, but if the screw is loose, there will be shaft rotation and the wheel will not turn. This situation also causes the problem of layer offset.
	The electronic problem may be that the stepper motor power supply current is insufficient, resulting in the stepper motor is not enough force to overcome the resistance. It may also be that the stepper motor drives the chip to overheating, causing the stepper motor to stop turning before the chip is cooled. There are many other points in electronics.		The electronic problem may be that the stepper motor power supply current is insufficient, resulting in the stepper motor is not enough force to overcome the resistance. It may also be that the stepper motor drives the chip to overheating, causing the stepper motor to stop turning before the chip is cooled. There are many other points in electronics.

			=== '''Surface spots and stripes problems'''===

			[[File:W67.png]]

			In the process of 3D printing, the extruder frequently extracts, most of the extruder can maintain a good extrusion width in the movement, however, in each withdrawal and extrusion process, there will be additional vibration. For example, if you look closely at the outer surface of the printed object, you may be able to see very small traces, the place where the printing begins. 3D printing starts at certain locations on the outer edge, and eventually goes back to the starting place. The trace is usually represented by surface spots or stripes; several ways to improve the problem:

			1. Return extraction and slide wipe setting
			If you find such traces on the surface of the printed piece, you can first observe the printing process at the beginning of each layer? Or do they appear after each layer is printed? If it appears before starting printing, the value of "restart additional extrusion distance" in the slicing software should be modified to be negative; if the withdrawal distance is 1.00mm and the additional extrusion distance is-0.2mm, the withdrawal is 1.00mm, but only 0.8mm. This should improve the problem of developing traces before starting printing. If this appear after the end of each layer, you need to adjust another setting called "taxi wipe", which causes the extruder to stop extrusion near the end, release the pressure, and the taxiway end point. This value was adjusted until the trace disappeared. In general, this value is set to 0.2-0.5mm.

			2. Avoid unnecessary withdrawal
			In general, in the slicing software, there will be the option of "withdrawing only when crossing the open area". After this option is opened, the 3D printer will not turn on the withdrawal when crossing the internal space of the object. This can reduce the occurrence of traces, in addition to the bowden extruder, and the extruder far from the nozzle, close the back may perform better;

			3. Non-fixed point backwithdrawal
			The conventional withdrawal will pause during the withdrawal, which is not suitable for the extruder with high internal pressure during bowden printing. Some slicing software can set the "wipe nozzle" option, which will cause the printer to continue to move during the withdrawal. In general, the wipe distance is set to 5mm;

			4. Set the printing start point
			All slicing software provides the option to print the starting point, which can start printing at a location specified by the user. For example, in a building, you can set the starting point on the back side of it, so that when printing, these traces will be arranged on the back side of the building, and these points are not visible on the front side.

			=== '''There are gaps between the edge and the filling'''===

			[[File:W68.png]]

			1. Insufficient edge overlap (overlap)
			Edge overlap refers to how much the fill overlaps with the internal edge. If you have 20%, try to 30% or more

			2. Printing speed is too fast
			Usually, the fill is much faster than the edges. Too fast filling speed, will let the filling and edge are not enough time to combine. If you change the overlap and the problem isn't solved, try to reduce the printing speed to 50%. If the problem is solved, you can slowly increase the speed until you find the most suitable printing speed for your printer.

			=== '''Rough edges and corners'''===

			[[File:W69.png]]

			This problem is mainly caused by the heat dissipation is not fast enough. After the high temperature supplies are extruded from the nozzle, they will change their shape in the process of slow cooling. If this problem occurs in the very beginning of the printing, you can refer to the "first layer off-platform problem" mentioned earlier

			=== '''Top layer surface scratch problem'''===

			[[File:W70.png]]

			1. Too much plastic extrusion
			Encounter the problem of scratches, the first thing to check is, is too much consumables extrusion. If the supplies are squeezed out, each layer is thicker than the set size, which means the scratches form when the nozzle moves through. The solution to this problem can refer to the aforementioned "more consumables"

			2. Vertical lifting
			If you are sure your consumables quantity is correct, but still scratch problems, so you can open in slice software "vertical lift" option, this option will make the machine in back, print head up a certain distance, and then move to the next coordinates, then move down back to the original height, continue to print. It's important to note that the print head will be raised vertically only in places where there is a tap. If you want to make sure that each pass has a vertical lift, make sure that the "draw only when crossing open space" and "minimum distance" options are closed.

			=== '''Holare holes in the bottom of the corner linet'''===

			[[File:W71.png]]

			This problem often occurs in the situation where the upper level is smaller than the lower level. The following provides several possible causes and solutions to this problem:
			1. Insufficient number of edges
			You can try increasing the number of edges by two;
			2. The number of top layers is insufficient
			You can try to add the top layers by two layers;
			3. The filling ratio is too low
			You can try to increase the fill ratio by 20%.
			=== '''The side edges are unevenH'''===

			[[File:W72.png]]

			The side of a printed piece is like a thousand-layer cake. In all normal cases, the side of the printed object should look like a smooth surface. Instead of showing the obvious edges, the following are several possible causes and suggested solutions:

			1. The extrusion volume is inconsistent
			Usually this reason is because the tolerance control of the mass line diameter of consumables is not strict. If the line diameter change of your consumables is about 5%, then the extrusion volume change of consumables is as much as 0.05mm. Of course, there are some other possibilities for the inconsistent extrusion quantity, which will be explained in detail in the following "inconsistent extrusion quantity"

			2. Temperature change
			Most 3D printers use PID to control the printing temperature. If the PID setting is not good, the printing temperature will fluctuate up and down (when the temperature rises, the liquidity of consumables is better than when the temperature is low), and the printing temperature fluctuation will affect the extrusion volume. Then, the problem of uneven side edge is generated. A fixed PID control can maintain the printing temperature within 2℃ up and down. If this range is exceeded, the PID needs to be rearranged.

			3. Mechanical reasons
			If you can be sure it's not either, it's probably mechanical. For example, when printing, the printing platform shaking and vibration may lead to the position change of the nozzle, which will lead to inconsistent layer thickness, and thus produce the problem of uneven side edges. Another example: mechanical position or motor differential control problem. Even the small offset of the printing platform can affect each layer of the printed object.

Admin at 07:40, 13 June 2023

2023-06-13T07:40:54Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:40, 13 June 2023
Line 669:		Line 669:
	4, the suspended movement distance is too long		4, the suspended movement distance is too long
	The suspended distance will also have a great impact on the drawing. The short distance movement, the melted consumables do not have enough time to flow out of the nozzle, but the long distance movement is very easy to produce the phenomenon of drawing. Some slicing software has relevant Settings, which can avoid the long distance movement.		The suspended distance will also have a great impact on the drawing. The short distance movement, the melted consumables do not have enough time to flow out of the nozzle, but the long distance movement is very easy to produce the phenomenon of drawing. Some slicing software has relevant Settings, which can avoid the long distance movement.

			=== '''Underextrusion and overextrusion'''===

			[[File:W64.png]]

			For most 3D printers, how much material the extruder squee. In the process of printing, due to some problems, the extrusion of the material will be less than expected. This requires the user to carefully look at the printed work to see if there are irregular distances between the textures and, and if so, usually for the following reasons.

			1.Material diameter
			When users buy materials, it is usually recommended to buy formal brand products. When buying inferior products, the diameter of the material may be unequal. For such materials, the diameter can usually be tested with measuring calipers to ensure that the diameter of the material is consistent with the package label.

			2.Increase extrusion multiple
			If the material diameter and identification is maintained, but there is a lack of extrusion material, then the extrusion speed needs to be adjusted. This is a very practical setting for the user, who can directly modify the amount of extrusion to squeeze more material. ABS material usually presses 109%, while PLA is 105%.

			3.Reduce extrusion speed
			If the material is normal and the extrusion is too much, the extrusion is reduced to keep the printing at a normal level.

			=== '''The top-level seal is insufficient'''===

			[[File:W65.png]]

			In order to save printing materials, most 3D printers will use different filling methods for the internal space, the commonly used ratio is 20% -30%, that is to say, in the closed product interior, only 20% -30% of the material, in this case, the work can still maintain a certain strength. However, in some of the works, users will find that some of the works are not perfect, and even have holes or gaps. If you encounter this problem, here are a few simple Settings, you can adjust and fix it.

			1. Top layers
			When the number of capped layers is insufficient, it is easy to lead to the phenomenon of material falling, and the number of layers can be increased accordingly;

			2. The filling rate is too low
			Too much reduction of the filling material, will make the internal space is too large, resulting in the number of upper layers can not be effectively supported, it is suggested to increase the internal filling ratio;

			3. Insufficient extruding materials of the extruder
			Due to the lack of extrusion material, the nozzle can not meet the expected requirements, which can be adjusted by adjusting the extrusion amount.

			=== '''Print offset'''===

			[[File:W66.png]]

			Most printers use a stepper motor to drive the machine in motion, meaning that the printer has no function to detect where the print head is located. However, once the stepper motor receives external force interference, or there is a large resistance, it may lead to the printing head dislocation, and the printer does not detect and correct the measures, so that the printed product produces dislocation \ displacement and other conditions.

			1. The print head moves too fast
			If the printing speed or empty speed exceeds the speed the stepper motor can handle, dislocation will occur. Adjust the low walking speed, and lower the acceleration if necessary.

			2. Mechanical or electronic reasons
			If the above does not solve your problem, then you need to check the mechanical and electronic aspects, most machines use belt drive, over time, the belt may lengthen and become loose, thus causing the belt to slip from the pulley. The solution is also relatively simple, the belt drive mechanism will generally have to adjust the tension degree of the belt mechanism, the belt adjustment is more tight some can be solved. However, it should be noted that if the adjustment is too tight, it will form a huge resistance between the rotating shaft and the bearing or may be unable to rotate. So the degree of tightness needs to be moderate.
			Another mechanical problem is the machine meter screw (top wire), this small screw is used to fix the pulley on the stepping motor shaft, so that the pulley rotates with the motor shaft, but if the screw is loose, there will be shaft rotation and the wheel will not turn. This situation also causes the problem of layer offset.
			The electronic problem may be that the stepper motor power supply current is insufficient, resulting in the stepper motor is not enough force to overcome the resistance. It may also be that the stepper motor drives the chip to overheating, causing the stepper motor to stop turning before the chip is cooled. There are many other points in electronics.

Admin: /* The consumables don't stick to the hot bed */

2023-06-13T07:32:00Z

The consumables don't stick to the hot bed

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:32, 13 June 2023
Line 622:		Line 622:

	[[File:W35.png]]		[[File:W35.png]]
	=== '''The consumables don't ~~stick to~~ the ~~hot bed~~'''===		=== '''The consumables don't fall off the Mylar'''===

	~~(a)Nozzle is too close to the hotbed~~		[[File:W59.png]]
	~~Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help~~.

	~~(b)Print temperature~~ is too ~~low~~		Filament residues stick to Mylar sheets and are difficult to remove, usually because the nozzle is too close to the hot bed when printing the first layer, resulting in very thin extruded filaments.
	~~Some filament needs more higher temperature, manually feed~~ the ~~filament~~, ~~if it can not be~~ extruded~~, please try increase the print temperature~~.		The spring steel sheet is flexible and easy for part removal. But keep in mind that prints are easy to remove after the plate cools down. Don’t try to forcefully remove the object when the sheet is still hot. We do not suggest you use the adhesive on the sheet, because the adhesive is difficult to clean up and may have an opposite effect.
			If there’re leftover residue on the sheet, preheat the hotbed to 80 degrees to make the plastic soft. Then use the wet cloth wiping the plate and gently scrap the residue off.
	~~(c)~~The ~~extruder~~ is not ~~working~~		A dirty bed will cause poor first layer adhesion. You need to remove the dirt, leftover residue or oil from the bed surface. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 90%+ will help to degrease the platform.
	~~Check if~~ the ~~grub screw~~ on the ~~extruder gear~~. If the ~~grub screw is loose~~, the ~~gear~~ will ~~fail~~ to ~~grab~~ the ~~filament when feeding into~~ the ~~hotend~~. ~~Also check if~~ the ~~extruder motor is connected properly~~.

	=== '''The consumables don't stick to the hot bed'''===		=== '''The consumables don't stick to the hot bed'''===

Admin: /* The consumables don't fall off the Mylar */

2023-06-13T07:31:40Z

The consumables don't fall off the Mylar

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:31, 13 June 2023
Line 633:		Line 633:
	Check if the grub screw on the extruder gear. If the grub screw is loose, the gear will fail to grab the filament when feeding into the hotend. Also check if the extruder motor is connected properly.		Check if the grub screw on the extruder gear. If the grub screw is loose, the gear will fail to grab the filament when feeding into the hotend. Also check if the extruder motor is connected properly.

	=== '''The consumables don't ~~fall off~~ the ~~Mylar~~'''===		=== '''The consumables don't stick to the hot bed'''===

	~~[[File:W59~~.~~png]]~~		(a)Nozzle is too close to the hotbed
			Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help.

	~~Filament residues stick to Mylar sheets and are difficult to remove, usually because the nozzle~~ is too ~~close to the hot bed when printing~~ the ~~first layer~~, ~~resulting in very thin~~ extruded ~~filaments~~.		(b)Print temperature is too low
	The ~~spring steel sheet is flexible and easy for part removal. But keep in mind that prints are easy to remove after the plate cools down. Don’t try to forcefully remove the object when the sheet~~ is ~~still hot. We do~~ not ~~suggest you use~~ the ~~adhesive~~ on the ~~sheet, because the adhesive is difficult to clean up and may have an opposite effect~~.		Some filament needs more higher temperature, manually feed the filament, if it can not be extruded, please try increase the print temperature.
	If ~~there’re leftover residue on~~ the ~~sheet~~, ~~preheat~~ the ~~hotbed to 80 degrees to make the plastic soft. Then use the wet cloth wiping the plate and gently scrap the residue off.~~
	~~A dirty bed~~ will ~~cause poor first layer adhesion. You need~~ to ~~remove~~ the ~~dirt, leftover residue or oil from~~ the ~~bed surface~~. ~~Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 90%+ will help to degrease~~ the ~~platform~~.		(c)The extruder is not working
			Check if the grub screw on the extruder gear. If the grub screw is loose, the gear will fail to grab the filament when feeding into the hotend. Also check if the extruder motor is connected properly.

	=== '''The thickness of the first layer printed is uneven'''===		=== '''The thickness of the first layer printed is uneven'''===

Admin at 07:28, 13 June 2023

2023-06-13T07:28:54Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:28, 13 June 2023
Line 622:		Line 622:

	[[File:W35.png]]		[[File:W35.png]]
			=== '''The consumables don't stick to the hot bed'''===

			(a)Nozzle is too close to the hotbed
			Even though the extruder is working but no filament is depositing on the hotbed, Check if the nozzle is too close to the hotbed. Adjust the Z-offset value slightly will help.

			(b)Print temperature is too low
			Some filament needs more higher temperature, manually feed the filament, if it can not be extruded, please try increase the print temperature.

			(c)The extruder is not working
			Check if the grub screw on the extruder gear. If the grub screw is loose, the gear will fail to grab the filament when feeding into the hotend. Also check if the extruder motor is connected properly.

	=== '''The consumables don't fall off the Mylar'''===		=== '''The consumables don't fall off the Mylar'''===
Line 644:		Line 654:
	=== '''The print is brushed or leaked'''===		=== '''The print is brushed or leaked'''===

	~~==== '''The print is brushed or leaked'''====~~		[[File:W63.png]]

	The drawing is the residual linear object left when the extruder crosses the open space. The common measure to solve this problem is to control the "withdrawal" function in the slice software. If the tap is opened in the slice, the consumables will be pulled back in the opposite direction for a distance before the sprinkler head is moved to the next point. When the product moves to the next point, the consumables will be squeezed out again. Although theoretically, it can be avoided, there are several problems in practice:		The drawing is the residual linear object left when the extruder crosses the open space. The common measure to solve this problem is to control the "withdrawal" function in the slice software. If the tap is opened in the slice, the consumables will be pulled back in the opposite direction for a distance before the sprinkler head is moved to the next point. When the product moves to the next point, the consumables will be squeezed out again. Although theoretically, it can be avoided, there are several problems in practice: