Delta Rostock mini G2 - Revision history

Admin at 06:24, 5 August 2015

2015-08-05T06:24:25Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:24, 5 August 2015
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	9.Once auto-leveling is set up, Hook up the probe manualy. Then you can print your first prints.		9.Once auto-leveling is set up, Hook up the probe manualy. Then you can print your first prints.


			=where to buy=

			1.[http://www.geeetech.com/delta-rostock-mini-g2-diy-kit-with-autoleveling-p-935.html?zenid=jlo49ls975q5jd6pc74fa88gu6 geeetech official online store].

Admin: /* SOURCES */

2015-08-05T05:54:22Z

SOURCES

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	=SOURCES=		=SOURCES=

	download the STL file for the printed parts ~~here~~[~~[Media~~:~~Geeetech delta rostock mini G2 &G2s STL~~.rar]]		download the STL file for the printed parts [http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/1/1e/Geeetech_delta_rostock_mini_G2_%26G2s_STL.rar here]

	=Specifications=		=Specifications=

Admin: /* Main features */

2015-08-05T05:53:26Z

Main features

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:53, 5 August 2015
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	6. Further simplified structure and enhanced stability.		6. Further simplified structure and enhanced stability.


			=SOURCES=

			download the STL file for the printed parts here[[Media:Geeetech delta rostock mini G2 &G2s STL.rar]]

	=Specifications=		=Specifications=

Admin: /* Specifications */

2015-07-31T03:10:53Z

Specifications

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:10, 31 July 2015
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	=Specifications=		=Specifications=

	Print Volume: ~~190 x~~ 200mm		Print Volume: cylindrical，D:190mm，H:200mm

	Chassis: laser -cut acrylic plate		Chassis: laser -cut acrylic plate

Admin: /* How to set up */

2015-07-27T06:09:51Z

How to set up

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:09, 27 July 2015
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	=How to set up=		=How to set up=

			<font color=red> Please '''DO NOT''' rush to start your first printing and start the Auto-leveling command right now, as this is a DIY kit, some parameters of the printer may be different from each other, you need to modify the firmware according the the real situation of your printer,
	~~[[Media:RKMA GT2560 G2.zip]]~~		You are avised to read through the whole set-up instructions step by step to get a whole picture of what you will be doing and stick to our instructions. Do not skip any detailes.</font>

	~~[[Media:RKMA GT2560 G2S.zip]]~~


	Please '''DO NOT''' rush to start your first printing and start the Auto-leveling command right now, as this is a DIY kit, some parameters of the printer may be different from each other, you need to modify the firmware according the the real situation of your printer,
	You are avised to read through the whole set-up instructions step by step to get a whole picture of what you will be doing and stick to our instructions. Do not skip any detailes.

	==How to modify and upload firmware==		==How to modify and upload firmware==

Admin: /* Verify code */

2015-07-27T06:08:47Z

Verify code

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:08, 27 July 2015
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	In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.		In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.

	~~=Verify code=~~

	=Calibration of auto-leveling =		=Calibration of auto-leveling =

Admin: /* Modify the firmware of Delta */

2015-07-27T06:08:23Z

Modify the firmware of Delta

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:08, 27 July 2015
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	In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.		In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.

	~~=Modify the firmware of Delta=~~
	We have pre-loaded the firmware to GT2560 before shipping, but as this is a DIY printer, there may be some subtle difference between each printer, so you need to modify the firmware to fit your exact printer for better printing effect.

	~~1. Download the firmware here. And unzip the zip/rar file.~~

	~~2. Open Arduino IDE. ( If you do not have Arduino IDE, you can download [http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/3/36/Arduino-1.0.5-r2-windows.zip here].)~~

	~~3. Drag all the files into Arduino IDE.~~

	~~4. Click Configuration.h and find out Delta Settings~~

	~~#define DELTA and modify the values as below.~~

	~~[[File:Define DELTA.png]]~~

	~~Please pay close attention to the red numbers.~~

	~~// Make delta curves from many straight lines (linear interpolation).~~
	~~// This is a trade-off between visible corners (not enough segments)~~
	~~// and processor overload (too many expensive sqrt calls).~~
	~~107 #define DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND 160~~
	~~110 #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD <font color=red> 186</font>【1】~~
	~~113 #define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 160.0 【2】~~
	~~116 #define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 34.0【3】~~
	~~119 #define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 25.0【4】~~

	~~<font color=red>* To help you better understand the 4 values, you can refer to the scheme.</font>~~

	~~[[File:DELTA OFFSET.png]]~~

	~~// Horizontal distance bridged by diagonal push rods when effector is centered.~~

	~~122 #define DELTA_RADIU (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET+<font color=red> 2.0</font>）~~
	~~=160-34-25+2~~

	~~// Print surface diameter/2 minus unreachable space (avoid collisions with vertical towers).~~
	~~125 #define DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS <font color=red>83</font>~~

	// use the Z-min, if you connect a mechanical endswitch between Com and NO pins, you do not have to change the setting for the Z-min, however, if you connect it between Com and NC pins, you should change false into true.

	~~322 const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.~~
	~~323 const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.~~
	~~324 const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = <font color=red>false</font>; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.~~
	~~325 const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.~~
	~~326 const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.~~
	~~327 const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.~~

	~~// Travel limits after homing~~
	~~365 #define X_MAX_POS <font color=red>DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS</font>~~
	~~366 #define X_MIN_POS -<font color=red>DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS</font>~~
	~~367 #define Y_MAX_POS <font color=red>DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS</font>~~
	~~368 #define Y_MIN_POS -<font color=red>DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS</font>~~
	~~369 #define Z_MAX_POS <font color=red>MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS</font>~~
	~~370 #define Z_MIN_POS <font color=red>0</font>~~

	~~//these are the positions on the bed to do the probing,the probe positing should not be beyond the printable radius.~~
	~~382 #define DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS (DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS*<font color=red>0.6</font>)~~
	~~383 #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS~~
	~~384 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS~~
	~~385 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS~~
	~~386 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION -DELTA_PROBABLE_RADIUS~~


	//these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe), these values are very important, especially the Z_PROBE_OFFSET. You can calculate the Z_PROBE_OFFSET values with this procedure:

	Manual y Move the print head down slowly, place the probe at the center of the print bed. When you hear the trigger of the endstop, you can get the coordinate on the LCD or on the Repetier host. In my case, it is <font color=red>【-20.35,11.75,0.3】</font>, you can add it to the following settings.

	~~389 #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER <font color=red>20.35</font>~~
	~~390 #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER <font color=red>-11.75</font>~~
	~~391 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER <font color=red>-0.3</font>~~


	~~398 #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING <font color=red>100</font> //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.~~
	~~399 #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10 //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points~~

	~~// with accurate bed leveling, the bed is sampled in a ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTSxACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS grid and least squares solution is calculated~~
	~~// Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte~~
	~~431 #define ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS <font color=red>4</font>~~

	~~// For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.~~
	~~455 #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS <font color=red>214</font>~~

	~~Till now, you have finished the edit of the firmware, then, you need to upload the modified firmware into your control board. For those not mentioned just leave them as default.~~

	~~5.Uploard firmware Choose board type.~~

	~~[[File:Uploard firmware.png]]~~

	~~6.Choose serial port (if you cannot find the serial port, please check the connection of your printer to your computer.)~~

	~~[[File:Uploard firmware2.png]]~~

	~~7.Load in the file you need to burn, Click the “[[File:Button1.jpg]]” button to check if it is right and then click the “[[File:Button2.jpg]]” button to upload.~~



	~~8.Upon uploading, the LED indicator corresponding to the TX， RX and L on the GT2560 will blink, if they stop blinking, it means the file has been uploaded successfully.~~

	9.After uploading, you can go on to the next step. If you cannot upload, check the dialog box below to identify the problem and solve it. The common mistakes are the wrong select of type of board or serial port etc.

	=Verify code=		=Verify code=

Admin: /* Printer preparing */

2015-07-27T06:08:00Z

Printer preparing

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:08, 27 July 2015
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	In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.		In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.

	~~=Printer preparing =~~

	~~2. Adjust endstop.~~
	~~Step1. First you need to tighten the screw for each endstop, make sure they reach as long as possibl.~~

	~~[[File:Diagonal rods6.jpg\|500px]]~~

	~~the screw on these 3 carridges.~~

	Step2. Set 3 probing points （0,50）、（43.3，-25）、（-43.3，-25), using G-code command to adjust the print head to the 3 points and record the '''distance between the nozzle and the print surface''' separately.

	~~[[File:Endstop adjust1.png]]~~

	~~[[File:Endstop adjust2.png]]~~

	~~1)send command： G0 X0 Y50 Z2， record the distance；e.g. it is 3mm in my case.~~

	~~2)send command: G0 X43.3 Y-25 Z2， record the distance；e.g. it is 2.7mm in my case.~~

	~~3)send G 0 X-43.3 Y-25 Z2, record the distance；e.g. it is 2.2mm in my case.~~

	If the 3 numbers differ too much, you can manually move down the print head until the nozzle just hit the print bed, and screw the endstop screw tightly, if the screw has no room to adjust, you need to change the following setting later, record it.
	~~E.g. Change 213.5 into 214~~

	~~455 #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 214~~

	~~3. Adjust the distance between the nozzle and the print surface, keep the center point and its around point in one plain.~~

	~~To adjust the distance between the nozzle and the print surface, you need to modify the DELTA_RADIUS~~
	~~(For each 1.0 unit increase or reduce of the DELTA_RADIUS, the z printing volume will increase or reduce 0.2 unit)~~


	~~122 #define DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET+2.0）~~


	*If the nozzle touches the center point but not the around points, you should reduce the DELTA_RADIUS

	*If the nozzle touches the around points but not the center point, you should increase the DELTA_RADIUS

	~~You may have to adjust this for many times to keep the center point and its around point in one plain. (the distance between the nozzle and the print bed).~~

	=Modify the firmware of Delta=		=Modify the firmware of Delta=

Admin: /* printer setting */

2015-07-27T06:06:59Z

printer setting

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:06, 27 July 2015
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	You can see from the start G-code, there is no G29.		You can see from the start G-code, there is no G29.

	[[File:Printer Settings7.png]]		[[File:Printer Settings7.png\|500px]]

	So you need to add the G29 after G28 to start it. And change Z5 into Z50.		So you need to add the G29 after G28 to start it. And change Z5 into Z50.

	[[File:Printer setting.jpg]]		[[File:Printer setting.jpg\|500px]]

	Save the current printing setting, click “OK” to continue.		Save the current printing setting, click “OK” to continue.

	[[File:Printer Settings9.png]]		[[File:Printer Settings9.png\|500px]]

	In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.		In case any cratch caused to your print bed, do not rush to test the auto-leveling command right now.

Admin: /* printer setting */

2015-07-27T06:06:19Z

printer setting

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:06, 27 July 2015
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	in the latest version of Slic3r,V1.2.7, you can set the bed shape, this is very important when printing with your delta rostock mini. go to general manual, click set button, choose circular and fill in the diameter of the printer bed.		in the latest version of Slic3r,V1.2.7, you can set the bed shape, this is very important when printing with your delta rostock mini. go to general manual, click set button, choose circular and fill in the diameter of the printer bed.

	[[File:Set bed shape.jpg]]		[[File:Set bed shape.jpg\|500px]]