Geeetech Wiki - User contributions [en]

Geeetech D1 Filament Drying Box

2026-04-02T08:10:09Z

Admin: /* Filament Drying Box Introduction */

==Filament Drying Box Introduction==

The D1 is a modular 3D printing filament drying chamber, with a single heating module that can be used with multiple sealed chambers. The chamber features a heat-resistant and insulated structure, with a maximum heating temperature of 90℃, meeting the drying requirements of various filaments such as ABS, PC, PA, and ASA. It incorporates a high-precision digital temperature sensor for accurate temperature control and rapid response. Multiple safety mechanisms are included, such as fan failure shutdown and over-temperature protection. An independent dehumidification structure effectively improves dehumidification efficiency by approximately 20%, and after drying, it can be used with sealing plugs and desiccants for long-term storage of filaments. A filament discharge port is provided in the chamber, supporting simultaneous drying and printing. It features a 2.8-inch true-color touchscreen with a 55° ergonomic tilt angle for intuitive and comfortable operation. With comprehensive functions and reliable safety, this product is an efficient and practical professional 3D printing filament drying solution.

Geeetech M1S 3D printer

2026-01-29T07:57:43Z

Admin: /* Printer Maintenance */

==Printer Introduction==

The GEEEETECH M1S is a mini high-speed 3D printer that supports WiFi connectivity and app control. It features a pressure leveling system, a close-range extruder, a heated bed, and an automatic nozzle wiper, with a maximum printing speed of 250mm/s. The app allows for printing status monitoring, parameter adjustment, model library preview, and remote control, combining high efficiency, intelligence, and convenience.

<big>Appearance</big>

[[File:M1S zt1.jpg]]
[[File:M1S zt2.jpg]]

Watch the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOlVStHrotg M1S unboxing video] and [https://www.geeetech.com/download.html?version_id=617 M1S quick guidel] before assembling the printer.

<big>Main specifications</big>

'''Printer type：''' FDM

'''Layer thickness：''' 0.1-0.2 mm

'''Printing materials：''' PLA, TPU, PETG, Silk PLA, Wood polymer

'''Building platform volume：''' 100*110*100 mm

'''Automatic leveling：''' Yes

'''Breakpoint resume：''' Yes

'''Nozzle diameter：''' 0.4 mm

'''Printing accuracy：''' ±0.1 mm

'''Printing speed：''' 10~250 mm/S; 200 mm/s recommended

'''Operating system：''' Windows, Mac, Linux,

'''Slicing software：''' Cura, Orcaslicer

'''Supported file formats：''' .gcode

'''Highest temperature of hot bed：''' 60 ℃

'''Maximum extruder temperature：''' 230 ℃

'''Ambient temperature：''' 10-40 ℃

<big>Electrical Parameter</big>

'''Power Input：'''

'''Power Output：''' DC 24 V-15 A Max

'''Connectivity Interface：''' 1*TF Card, 1*USB cable

<big>Mechanical Parameter</big>

'''Net Weight(kg)：''' 3 kg

'''Gross Weight(kg)：''' 4 kg

'''Printer Whole Size：''' 279(W)*200(L)*298(H)mm

'''Packing Dimension：''' 257(L)*270(W)*405(H)mm

==Printer Maintenance==

=== '''How to clean the hotend'''===
If you need to clean the hotend, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_clean_the_hotend Click here]

=== '''How to Replace the hotend'''===
If you need to replace the hotend, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Replace_the_hotend Click here]

=== '''How to replace the nozzle'''===
If you need to replace the nozzle, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_replace_the_nozzle Click here]

=== '''How to Replace the Control Board'''===
If you need to replace the control board, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Replace_the_Control_Board Click here]

=== '''How to Replace the Screen'''===
If you need to replace the Screen, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer Click here]

=== '''How to Clean the Extruder'''===
If you need to clean the extruder, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Clean_the_Extruder Click here]

=== '''How to Replace the Extruder'''===
If you need to replace the extruder, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Replace_the_Extruder Click here]

=== '''How to Automatically Level'''===
If you need to automatically level, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Automatically_Level Click here]

=== '''How to Manually Level'''===
If you need to manually level, you can refer to this tutorial: [https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Manually_Level Click here]

=== '''How to Adjust the X-axis Belt'''===
If you need to adjust the X-axis belt, you can refer to this tutorial: :
[https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_adjust_the_X-axis_belt Click here]

=== '''How to Adjust the X-axis Belt'''===
If you need to adjust the X-axis belt, you can refer to this tutorial: :
[https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_adjust_the_X-axis_belt Click here]

=== '''How to Install a Detached Print Head'''===
If you need to install a detached print head, you can refer to this tutorial: :
[https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_install_a_detached_print_head Click here]

=== '''How to Remove the Upper Frame'''===
If you need to remove the upper frame, you can refer to this tutorial: :
[https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_remove_the_upper_frame Click here]

=== '''How to Remove the Middle Frame'''===
If you need to remove the middle frame, you can refer to this tutorial: :
[https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_remove_the_middle_frame Click here]

=== '''How to Replace a Heated Bed Kit'''===
If you need to replace a heated bed kit, you can refer to this tutorial: :
[https://wiki.geeetech.com/index.php/Geeetech_M1_3D_printer#How_to_Replace_a_Heated_Bed_Kit Click here]

=== '''Mainboard wiring diagram'''===
[[File:MB.jpg]]

=== '''Print head adapter board wiring diagram'''===
[[File:ZJB.png]]

File:ZJB.png

2026-01-29T07:38:31Z

2025-11-12T07:25:14Z

2025-10-30T09:53:59Z

Admin:

File:M1S zhutu2.jpg

2025-10-30T09:53:38Z

Admin:

M1S_zhutu2

File:M1S zhutu1.jpg

2025-10-30T09:53:11Z

Admin:

M1S_zhutu1

2025-10-30T06:30:48Z

Admin:

== PLA ==
Polylactic acid, commonly referred to as PLA, is made from natural materials such as corn starch. It’s the most widely-used filament in the 3D printing industry. PLA isn’t a plastic known for its strength compared with PETG or ABS, and it’s brittle and stiff compared with TPU. But it’s easy to print, does not need an enclosure or a direct drive extruder. It’s cheap, widely accessible and it can be printed more quickly than most other filament.

[[File:Pla1.png]]

As for Geeetech PLA, the perfect settings in Cura slicer is shown as below:

'''Nozzle temperature: 180-220 °C'''

'''Bed temperature: 60-70 °C'''

'''Retraction distance: 6 mm for Bowden setups, 2-3 mm for direct drive setups'''

'''Retraction speed: 45 mm/s'''

'''Cooling fan speed:100%'''

'''Initial layer cooling speed: 0%'''

'''Build plate adhesion: Skirt or Brim'''

If you want to test the most suitable print temperature, download the temperature tower model below.

The [https://www.geeetech.com/download.html?download_id=57 PLA temperature tower] is available in our website.

[https://www.geeetech.com/filament-storage-vacuum-bag-1pcs-mini-vacuum-machine4pcs-vacuum-bags-p-1265.html Geeetech Filament Storage Vacuum Bag]

=== '''PLA not sticking to the hotbed '''===

(1) Level the hotbed

In order to get a perfect first layer, make sure the printing platform is flat and level. That’s to say, the nozzle should be the same distance above the hotbed at all points. Manual leveling or automatic leveling will help you achieve this.

(2) Change the Z-offset

Z-offset is the distance between the nozzle and Z axis home position. A bad Z-offset can cause the nozzle either too close or too far from the hotbed, that will make a bad influence on how PLA is deposited on the bed.

[[File:Pla2.png]]

(3) Clean the hotbed

A dirty bed will cause poor first layer adhesion. You need to remove the dirt, leftover residue or oil from the bed surface. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 90%+ will help to degrease the platform.

(4) Adjust the slicer settings

Small prints will likely to detach from the hotbed because of the small contact area. Using a brim or raft in the slicer will be helpful to this problem. And we recommend the first layer height set to 0.3mm, print at 25mm/s.

=== '''Silk PLA keeps clogging '''===

Silk PLA owes its glossy look to some elastic additives. It is easy to 3D print, but the elastomers can sometimes cause clogging issues and under extrusion.

We recommend you print the [https://www.geeetech.com/download.html?download_id=57 PLA temperature tower] for every different silk PLA. For example, silk green will string a lot when the temperature is higher than 200 degrees, but the silk sliver will get its best properties at 220 degrees.

[[File:Pla3.png]]

=== '''Luminous PLA not able to shine as expected '''===

You need “charge” the prints under UV light before they will glow in the dark. The glow lasts about 2-3 minutes.

Geeetech Luminous Multicolor PLA is a color change every 13 meters based on the three primary colors of red, green and blue. There will be a color gradient at the intersection of the color change, in which the wavelength of green light (520_570nm) is in the center of the visible spectrum, as shown in the figure below:

[[File:W51.png]]

'''Consider printing with thick walls and little infill for best results''': the thicker your walls, the stronger the glow. But be aware, these blends tend to also be more abrasive compared to your standard PLA, so better check your 3D printer nozzle.

Among luminous PLA of various colors, luminous green PLA has the best effect, because luminous powder is added and its main component is fluorite that glows green. It is recommended to increase the UV exposure time in order to get the best effect.

[[File:Pla4.png]]

The luminous PLA is not as easy as standard PLA to stick to the hotbed, please increase the hotbed temperature to 70-75 degrees and make sure you have a clean and leveled hotbed before printing.

=== '''Wood PLA keeps clogging'''===

Wood PLA is made by combining polylactic acid and fibers of different types of wood, such as willow, bamboo, cork, cedar, and more.

Geeetech wood PLA contain about 85% PLA and 15% wooden fibers.

We suggest you should use 0.4 mm or larger nozzles, otherwise, the wood particles might clog up the nozzle.

The recommended print temperature is 180-190 degrees, hotbed temperature is 40-60 degrees.

=== '''Carbon Fiber PLA'''===

Carbon fiber PLA is a composite material, usually made of a mixture of polylactic acid (PLA) and carbon fiber.

(1) Carbon fiber PLA has the following characteristics:

High strength and high rigidity: It combines the easy printability of PLA with the high strength and rigidity of carbon fiber.

Thermal stability: After adding carbon fiber, the heat resistance is improved, but it is still not suitable for high temperature environments.

Printing performance: It has good printing performance, less warping and shrinkage, and is easy to control.

(2) When using carbon fiber PLA, you need to pay attention to the following:

Nozzle selection: It is recommended to use a nozzle of 0.4 mm or larger to avoid clogging.

Printing temperature: The nozzle temperature is maintained at 200°C to 230°C, and the hot bed temperature is set at 50°C to 60°C to avoid material clogging or printing quality problems.

Humidity control: Use sealed bags and desiccant when storing to prevent moisture absorption from affecting printing quality.

Clean the nozzle: Clean the nozzle and extruder regularly to prevent carbon fiber particles from accumulating.

=== '''Marble PLA'''===

Marble PLA is a special type of PLA (polylactic acid) material that is mixed with stone powder or other additives to simulate the look and texture of marble.

(1) Marble PLA has the following characteristics:

Appearance: Unique marble texture and feel

Easy to print: Good fluidity and low warpage

Environmental protection: Biodegradable and environmentally friendly

(2) When using marble PLA, please note the following:

Nozzle selection: Because it contains marble particles, long-term use may cause nozzle wear. It is recommended to use a wear-resistant nozzle

Printing temperature: The nozzle temperature is maintained at 200°C to 230°C, and the hot bed temperature is set at 50°C to 60°C

Humidity control: It should be stored in a dry environment, using sealed bags and desiccant to prevent moisture absorption

Printing speed: It is recommended to use a medium speed of 30 to 60 mm/s to ensure printing quality and texture effect

=== '''High Speed PLA'''===

High speed PLA has a much faster flow rate than regular PLA before under extruding.

By adjusting the melting point/index, glass transition temperature of raw materials and optimizing the production process, Geeetech enables HS-PLA to have stronger fluidity, smoother discharge, faster curing and forming speed and is not easy to deform under the melting condition.

[[File:Pla5.png]]

== PETG ==

Polyethylene terephthalate glycol, most commonly known as PETG, is a widely-used material in 3D printing. It’s a durable, non-toxic, low-shrinkage and sturdy material that’s suitable to use in outdoors. But remember PETG is hygroscopic. Try using a container or resealable bags.

As for Geeetech PETG, the perfect settings in Cura slicer is shown as below:

'''Nozzle temperature: 220-230 °C'''

'''Bed temperature: 70-80 °C'''

'''Retraction distance: 6 mm for Bowden setups, 2-3 mm for direct drive setups'''

'''Retraction speed: 25 mm/s'''

'''Cooling fan speed: 30-40%'''

'''Initial layer cooling speed: 0%'''

'''Build plate adhesion: Brim'''

[https://www.geeetech.com/download.html?download_id=57 The PETG Cura profile, PETG temperature tower and fan tower are available in our website]

[https://www.geeetech.com/filament-storage-vacuum-bag-1pcs-mini-vacuum-machine4pcs-vacuum-bags-p-1265.html Geeetech Filament Storage Vacuum Bag]

== ABS ==

Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) is commonly found in household and consumer products. ABS is strong, tough, and durable. It has good resistance to heat and impact. Toxic fumes are released while printing ABS, you’ll need an enclosure or in a properly ventilated room.

As for Geeetech ABS, the perfect settings in Cura slicer is shown as below:

'''Nozzle temperature: 230-250 °C'''

'''Bed temperature: 80-100 °C'''

'''Retraction distance: 6 mm for Bowden setups, 2-3 mm for direct drive setups'''

'''Retraction speed: 25 mm/s'''

'''Cooling fan speed: 0%'''

'''Initial layer cooling speed: 0%'''

'''Build plate adhesion: Brim'''

ABS is a hygroscopic material. High moisture content in the filament leads to poor layer adhesion and brittleness. This results in a 3D printed part that can break away easily. Dry boxes and plastic vacuum bags offer a great way to store your materials.

[https://www.geeetech.com/filament-storage-vacuum-bag-1pcs-mini-vacuum-machine4pcs-vacuum-bags-p-1265.html Geeetech Filament Storage Vacuum Bag]

== TPU ==

TPU stands for “thermoplastic polyurethane”. TPU is a specific type of TPE and is on the more rigid than other flexible filaments, making it easier to print with. The Shore hardness value of Geeetech PLA is 95A. You will need TPU if your print always bends, stretches or compresses.

[[File:Pla7.png]]

As for Geeetech TPU, the perfect settings in Cura slicer is shown as below:

Nozzle temperature: 200-230℃

Bed temperature: 60℃

Retraction distance: 2.5 mm

Retraction speed: 80 mm/s

Cooling fan speed: 100%

Initial layer cooling speed: 0%

Build plate adhesion: Edge

[https://www.geeetech.com/filament-storage-vacuum-bag-1pcs-mini-vacuum-machine4pcs-vacuum-bags-p-1265.html Geeetech Filament Storage Vacuum Bag]

== ASA ==

Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate (ASA) has mechanical properties similar to ABS—strong, tough, and impact-resistant—with better weather resistance (UV, moisture, extreme temperatures), ideal for outdoor use. Less prone to warping than ABS, it benefits from a heated bed and enclosure. Fewer toxic fumes than ABS, but ventilation is still needed.

[[File:ASA_01.png]]

== Applicable to Bambu Lab AMS LITE==

GEEETECH consumables can be used with this bracket on the Bambu Lab AMS Lite system

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KqEPtpktfTxeXTFFHBS_HanhLsq7SxzY/view?usp=drive_link

[[File:001.jpg|250px|001]]
[[File:002.jpg|250px|002]]
[[File:003.jpg|250px|003]]

[[File:004.jpg|250px|004]]
[[File:005.jpg|250px|005]]

== Solution for consumables entangled with each other ==
For the problem of consumables being intertwined, here are some solutions:

1.Separate the entangled parts: Separate the entangled parts of the filament one by one, and operate carefully to ensure that the filament will not be further entangled or damaged.

2.Rewind the filament: Rewind the separated filament, ensuring that it is wound in the clockwise direction of the outer ring of the filament. Avoid random or reverse winding to avoid causing the filament to stagger or become entangled again.

3.Use appropriate tools: You can use appropriate auxiliary tools to help rewind the filament to ensure more precise and stable operation.

4.Adjust the position of the filament: Make sure that the filament reel on the printer is in the correct position and will not interfere with the normal supply and winding of the filament.

5.Regular maintenance and cleaning: Regularly clean the printer’s filament path and surrounding area to ensure that no accumulated dust or debris affects the normal operation of the filament.

6.Youtube video link address: https://youtube.com/shorts/6L3DUEzIdVY?feature=share