View source for Ramps1.4

==Summary==

In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.
[[File:ramps.jpg]]

==Features==

* It has provisions for the cartesian robot and extruder. 
* Expandable to control other accessories.
* 3 mosfets for heater / fan outputs and 3 thermistor circuits.
* Fused at 5A for additional safety and component protection
* Heated bed control with additional 11A fuse
* Fits 5 [[Pololu stepper driver board]]
* Pololu boards are on pin header sockets so they can be replaced easily or removed for use in future designs.
* I2C and SPI pins left available for future expansion.
* All the Mosfets are hooked into PWM pins for versatility.
* Servo style connectors are used to connect to the endstops, motors, and leds. These connectors are gold plated, rated for 3A, very compact, and globally available.
* USB type B receptacle
* SD Card add on available -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]
* LEDs indicate when heater outputs on
* Option to connect 2 motors to Z for Prusa Mendel


==Safety Tip==

even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop smoke detector. Got no smoke detector? Get one!

==Inspection==

'''Stepper Driver Boards'''

#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:

  jumper   Yes/No  step size
  1     2    3
  no   no    no    full step
  yes  no    no    half step
  no   yes   no    1/4 step
  yes  yes   no    1/8 step
  yes  yes   yes   1/16 step
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. 
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.

===Opto Endstops===

#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) 
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. 

 {| border="1"
| RAMPS End
|
|-
| SIG (S)
| 
|-
| GND (-)
| 
|-
| VCC (+)
|
|}
    {| border="1" 
| Endstop End
|
|-
| VCC (+)
| 
|-
| SIG (S)
| 
|-
| GND (-)
|
|}

===Mechanical Endstops===

The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. 

Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: 
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.

'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.

===Put the connectors on the motor wires===
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. 
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.

===Thermistor Wires===
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.

===Pololu carriage===
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.

=Final Setup=
==Pre-Flight Check==
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.

The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.

[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z

Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)

You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.

Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.

==Wiring==
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. 

Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.

===Warnings===

<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.

Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.

The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font>

==Connecting Power==

Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.

The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.

The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).

The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.

The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.

==Power Supply==
[http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/thumb/e/e0/D1D2.jpg/180px-D1D2.jpg]
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from PCPowerSupply. Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater. Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.
See Connecting power above.
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.

=Assembly=
==Required Tools==
You must have:
Solder iron, solder wire, good tweezers
You really need:
Solder wick, solder sucker, flux pen
Optional methods use:
Solder paste, hot plate or oven 

===Shield Assembly===
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] 
Soldering RAMPS 1.4 includes both surface mount and through hole soldering.

The surface mount can be done a few ways. Since all the SMT components on this board are large 2 pad parts you can do pin by pin soldering pretty easy with normal soldering equipment. Start by putting a small amount of solder on one pad. If you have flux, coat the soldered pad. Use the tweezers to hold the component down in position and heat the solder to tack the component into place (make sure the entire solder blob flows so you don't get a cold solder). Then solder the other pad. Also popular is using solder paste for pad by pad soldering, Oven Reflow (need link), and [[HotplateReflowTechnique]]

Solder the SMT components first. Then the PTH on top of the board. Finally solder the pin headers on the bottom.

==== C2 - 100nF capacitor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]
This can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>
==== LED1 - Green LED====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.
<br clear="all"/>

==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - Red LED====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG  |thumb]]
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.
<br clear="all"/>
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm resistor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]
These can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>
====R12 - 1K resistor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]
These can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K resistor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>

====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K resistor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]
These can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K resistor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]
These can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K resistor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]
These can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF capacitor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.
<br clear="all"/>

====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF capacitor====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. 
<br clear="all"/>

====Reflow SMT soldering====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.

Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.
<br clear="all"/>
====Top pins====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.

If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.
<br clear="all"/>

====Driver sockets====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.
<br clear="all"/>
====D1, D2 - Diodes====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.

Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.

D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.
<br style="clear: both" />

====F1 - MFR500 Fuse====
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.

Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.

====Bottom pins====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage it's connectors.
<br clear="all"/>
====Reset switch====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]
This can only be oriented in one direction.
<br clear="all"/>
====Mosfet Terminal====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.
<br clear="all"/>
====Power Terminal====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]
This can only be oriented in one direction.
<br clear="all"/>
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - Mosfets====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.
<br clear="all"/>
====F2 - MFR1100 Fuse====
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.
<br clear="all"/>

====Inspection====
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.

===Stepper Driver Boards===
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:

  jumper   Yes/No  step size
  1     2    3
  no   no    no    full step
  yes  no    no    half step
  no   yes   no    1/4 step
  yes  yes   no    1/8 step
  yes  yes   yes   1/16 step
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)

#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. 
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.

===Opto Endstops===
Opto board 2.1 build instructions can be found [http://reprap.org/wiki/OptoEndstop_2.1#Build_It here on the reprap opto page], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) 
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. 
    {| border="1"
| RAMPS End
|
|-
| SIG (S)
| White
|-
| GND (-)
| Black
|-
| VCC (+)
| Red
|}
    {| border="1" 
| Endstop End
|
|-
| VCC (+)
| Red
|-
| SIG (S)
| White
|-
| GND (-)
| Black
|}

===Mechanical Endstops===
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. 

Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: 
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.

'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.

===Put the connectors on the motor wires===
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. 
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.

===Thermistor Wires===
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.

===Pololu carriage===
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.

=Final Setup=
==Pre-Flight Check==
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.

The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.

[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z

Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)

You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.

Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.

==Wiring==
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. 

[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]

Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.

===Warnings===

<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.

Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.

The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font>

==Connecting Power==

Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.

The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.

The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).

The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.

The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.

==Power Supply==
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.

See Connecting power above.

The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.

The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.

Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.

The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.

The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.

===Maximum Input Voltage===
====Power Supply without diode====
The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA.  If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V.  (The pololus can do up to 35V)
====Power Supply with diode====
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.

=Firmware and Pin Assignments=

<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font>

You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. Arduino MEGA 2560 Rev3 requires Arduino software version 0023.

[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.

Working preconfigured sprinter firmware can be downloaded at http://ultimachine.com/sites/default/files/UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip . Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.

Working preconfigured Marlin firmware can be downloaded at
http://www.mediafire.com/?un8s4i2lvdgd875 . is for mecanical endstops, for optical endstop need to reverse the logic of endstops from the configuration.h shell, the language of display is in italian, but can easy be canged from the shell language.h

Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):

*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.

Here are the pin definitions for this board.
<pre>
// For RAMPS 1.4
#define X_STEP_PIN         54
#define X_DIR_PIN          55
#define X_ENABLE_PIN       38
#define X_MIN_PIN           3
#define X_MAX_PIN           2

#define Y_STEP_PIN         60
#define Y_DIR_PIN          61
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN       56
#define Y_MIN_PIN          14
#define Y_MAX_PIN          15

#define Z_STEP_PIN         46
#define Z_DIR_PIN          48
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN       62
#define Z_MIN_PIN          18
#define Z_MAX_PIN          19

#define E_STEP_PIN         26
#define E_DIR_PIN          28
#define E_ENABLE_PIN       24

#define SDPOWER            -1
#define SDSS               53
#define LED_PIN            13

#define FAN_PIN            9

#define PS_ON_PIN          12
#define KILL_PIN           -1

#define HEATER_0_PIN       10
#define HEATER_1_PIN       8
#define TEMP_0_PIN          13   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define TEMP_1_PIN          14   // ANALOG NUMBERING
</pre>

==Source==

{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"
|- style="background-color:#999999;" 
! FILE ID#
! TYPE
! DESCRIPTION
! DOWNLOAD
|-
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]
| Eagle Files
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]
|-
|-
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]
| Eagle Libraries
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]
|-
|}

==Bill of Materials==
{| border="1"
|-
! ID
! Description
! Quantity
! Part Number
! Reichelt Order Number
! Digikey Part Number (Description) 
|-
| U1
| Arduino Mega
| 1
|2560 or 1280
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/A000067/1050-1018-ND/2639006 1050-1018-ND](BOARD MCU MEGA2560)
|-
| U2,U3,U4,U5
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s
| 4
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis
|
|N/A
|-
| C2
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)
| 1
| 
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CC0805KRX7R8BB104/311-1141-1-ND/303051 311-1141-1-ND](CAP CER 0.1UF 25V 10% X7R 0805)
|-
| C1,C5,C8
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)
| 3
| 
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EXV106M025A9BAA/399-6724-1-ND/3082855 399-6724-1-ND](CAP ALUM 10UF 25V 20% SMD)
|-
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)
| 6
|
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EXV107M016A9GAA/399-6726-1-ND/3082857 399-6726-1-ND](CAP ALUM 100UF 16V 20% SMD)
|-
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)
| 5
| 
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=RHM4.70KAECT-ND+ RHM4.70KAECT-ND](RES 4.70K OHM .4W 1% 0805) 
|-
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10
| 100K resistor (0805)
| 8
| 
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ESR10EZPF1003/RHM100KAECT-ND/1983806 RHM100KAECT-ND](RES 100K OHM .4W 1% 0805)
|-
| R12
| 1K resistor (0805)
| 1
| 
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ESR10EZPF1001/RHM1.00KAECT-ND/1983804 RHM1.00KAECT-ND](RES 1.00K OHM .4W 1% 0805)
|- 
| R23,R24,R25
| 1.8K resistor (0805)
| 3
|
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RC0805FR-071K8L/311-1.80KCRCT-ND/730467 311-1.80KCRCT-ND](RES 1.80K OHM 1/8W 1% 0805)
|-
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20
| 10K resistor (0805)
| 5
|
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ERJ-6ENF1002V/P10.0KCCT-ND/119248 P10.0KCCT-ND](RES 10.0K OHM 1/8W 1% 0805)
|-
| R13,R14,R15
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)
| 3
|
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CRCW080510R0FKEAHP/541-10.0TCT-ND/2222835 541-10.0TCT-ND](RES 10.0 OHM .33W 1% 0805)
|-
| Q1,Q2,Q3
| N-channel Mosfet
| 3
| STP55NF06L
| ZXM 64N035 L3
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)
|-
| D1,D2
| Diode
| 2
| 1N4004
| 1N 4004
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)
|-
| F1
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)
| 1
| MF-R500
| PFRA 500
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)
|-
| F2
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)
| 1
| MF-R1100
| 
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)
|-
| J2
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair
| 1
| 282837-6
| AKL 101-06
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM)  <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND].  [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]
|-
| LED1
| Green LED (0805)
| 1
|
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CMD17-21VGD%2FTR8/L62505CT-ND/254936 L62505CT-ND](LED GREEN DIFF 0805 SMD)
|-
|LED2,LED3,LED4
| Red LED (0805)
| 3
|
|
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CMD17-21VRD%2FTR8/L62501CT-ND/254934 L62501CT-ND](LED HI EFF RED DIFF 0805)
|-
| S1
| Push button switch
| 1
| B3F-3100 
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)
|-
| X1
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)
| 1
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)
| 
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)
|-
|
| 2 x 3 pin header
| 8
| 961206-6404-AR
|
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)
|-
| 
| 4 pin header
| 5
| 961104-6404-AR
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)
|-
| 
| 6 pin header
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)
| 961106-6404-AR
|
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)
|-
|
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)
| 1
| 
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable
|-
| 
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)
| 5
|
|
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable
|-
| 
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)
| 1
|
|
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable
|-
| 
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *
| 2
| Required to carry enough current for motors
| 
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin
|-
| 
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *
| 4
| Required to carry enough current for motors
| 
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin
|-
|
| 0.1" Jumpers
| 15
|
|
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)
|-
|
| Circuit Board
|1
|v1.4
|
|N/A
|}
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)

A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet] (This list is incomplete and has missing or incorrect quantities.)

Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .

= BT Extension =
In order to get rid of the USB connection between RAMPS and the PC one may like to use Bluetooth. There is a cheap module available in the market called 'JY-MCU' (vendor Shenzhen Jiayuan Electronic Co.,Ltd.).

[[File:jy-mcu_f.jpg|300px]] [[File:jy-mcu_b.jpg|300px]]

==Change module setting==
Before the module can be used the default setting has to be changed. Connect the module from PC via USB<->RS232 (RxD/TxD) interface with default settings (9600, N, 8, 1). The module shouldn't be paired at that moment. Apply with a terminal program the following AT commands:
<pre>
AT OK 
AT+BAUD8 OK115200BAUD (set baud rate for RAMPS/Arduino Mega)
AT+NAMEPRUSAI3 OKsetname (optional set name, default: linvor)
AT+PIN0000 OKsetPIN  (optional set pin, default: 1234)
</pre>

More details about the configuration you will find here [[http://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi#Connect_via_Bluetooth]]

==Wiring==
On RAMPS/Arduino Mega the UART level are 5V but the BT module supports only 3.3V input. Therefore the TxD level has to be divided by resistor. This passive solution is fast enough for 115kBaud. Overall only 4 wires have to be soldered. 

==Connect via Bluetooth==
Once you have setup your BT devices you can select from drop down list and control your RepRap as usual.